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Rental Turnover Checklist: What to Repair Before Your Next Tenant Moves In

Start at the front door with the key the next resident will receive. A deadbolt can turn freely with the door open and bind when the door is closed. Test it both ways. That difference turns “fix lock” into a work order a technician can act on.

Take the inspection report with you. Print a blank copy for a clipboard, or check boxes and enter notes on your phone or computer. Save the completed report as a PDF before leaving the page. Open the free walkthrough form.

What to take on the walkthrough

Pack a flashlight for dark cabinets, a phone for photos, a flat and a Phillips screwdriver or one multi bit driver, a plug in GFCI outlet tester, a small working lamp, a stable step stool, a marker, a light tissue and dry paper towels. Save the blank report on your phone or bring a clipboard.

Use the drivers for ordinary accessible hardware within your role. Leave electrical covers in place. Set the stool on a dry, level floor and reposition it before reaching sideways.

Record the unit, date, rooms and available utilities first. Follow the same route on the initial visit and at closeout. Give each finding a room, an exact location and a photo reference. Mark anything you cannot test. Stop a test if water backs up, a fixture moves, or equipment shows signs of damage.

Entry doors, locks and stairs

Walk the approach in daylight. Look for loose tread edges, uneven transitions, missing fasteners and handrails that move under normal use. Record the exact step or side. Leave a visibly unsafe stair or landing out of use pending assessment.

Operate each door from both sides where accessible. Check the key, lever, latch and deadbolt separately. Look at hinge screws, the strike plate and the door edge for scrape marks. Note whether lifting or pushing the door changes how the latch engages. Check the sweep for a gap or drag, then test interior and closet doors for loose tracks, stops and hardware.

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Windows, walls and floors

Work clockwise around each room. Open each accessible window using its normal controls, confirm it stays where designed, then close and latch it. Look for cracked glass, torn screens, damaged balances and swollen or stained sills. A screen can look fine while the sash itself will not stay open. Never lean outside to test one.

Open blinds and look behind curtains. Check the wall below the sill and the floor at exterior doors. Record whether a stain is dry or damp today. Look across flooring from each doorway for lifting seams, loose transitions and soft spots. Photograph the whole wall or floor, then the defect. For paint, record the surface and sheen before ordering a touchup.

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Cabinets, countertops and silicone seams

Open each door and drawer. A hinge may look tight when closed but pull away from the cabinet box as the door opens. Check shelves for sag, drawer stops for engagement, loose pulls and cabinet bases for separation. Do not load or pull on a cabinet that appears detached.

Look along the sink rim, countertop joint, backsplash and ends where the counter meets the wall. Side lighting makes gaps, peeling silicone and split seams easier to see. Check the cabinet and toe kick directly below the gap. Swelling or discoloration can show where water has traveled behind a finished surface. Record the condition before sealing over it.

Follow the entire bead

Shine the flashlight along the joint from one end to the other, including the corners. At a joint intended to be sealed, look for one continuous bead bonded to both surfaces. Mark any crack, pinhole, missing stretch or lifted edge where water could slip behind the counter, backsplash, sink rim or tub surround. Record its exact location and check the surface below for swelling. Leave designed drain and weep openings clear.

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Faucets, drain flow and under sink leaks

Establish a dry starting point. Empty the cabinet enough to see the base, supply connections, drain and back wall. Photograph any existing swelling. Dry the faucet deck and place dry paper beneath the visible joints without disturbing them.

Test during flow. Run cold and then warm water at an ordinary flow while staying at the sink. Move each handle through its normal travel. Watch the handle stem, faucet base and sprayer hose. Check the cabinet while the faucet runs, then again after shutoff. Record where the first bead appeared. If a drip forms, stop and dry the area.

Look below the handleDry first, then run the faucet
Illustration. The stream at the spout is expected. A bead forming where the handle stem enters the faucet while the water runs is a separate finding. Dry the area and repeat to rule out splash.

Test during discharge. If the sink drains normally and no leak is visible, partially fill the basin, turn off the tap, and release the stopper. Watch the strainer, tailpiece, trap connections and wall entry as the larger volume drains. Stop if water begins to back up. Record slow drainage, gurgling, an active drip or lingering moisture separately.

What kind of drain is under the sink?

Ribbed accordion drainSmooth rigid P trap
Illustration. Follow the drain from the sink outlet to the wall. Closely spaced folds identify an accordion section. A rigid trap has a formed bend and smooth walls. Small flexible supply hoses leading to the faucet are separate from the drain.

Flag a ribbed flexible drain for plumbing review. Its folds can retain debris, and the section can sag. A smooth rigid trap is the typical comparison, but its appearance alone cannot establish correct venting, slope or code compliance. Have a qualified plumber assess the installed fitting and applicable local requirements. Oregon plumbing code program.

Field photo references

Leaking PVC pipe at a bathroom sink trap
Leaking PVC pipe at a bathroom sink trap. Look at the joint and the cabinet surface beneath it while the basin drains. Photo by Tony Webster · CC BY 2.0.
Rigid brass P trap from a utility sink
Rigid brass P trap from a utility sink. Follow the smooth bend and compare its surface with the accordion folds in the diagram. Photo by Raquel Baranow · CC BY-SA 4.0.

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Bathrooms, laundry and dryer exhaust

Flush the toilet and stay until the tank stops filling. Look at the supply connection, tank bolts and floor around the base. Record movement noticed in normal use. Run the tub and shower separately where practical, check that the diverter directs flow, and watch how quickly standing water clears. Look at the floor outside the shower and the room below if accessible.

Test the bath fan and light at their controls. A motor sound alone does not confirm exhaust reaches outside. Inspect visible washer hoses and the floor beside the machine without pulling it out. Check the dryer lint filter and the visible duct for lint, crushing or disconnection. If the dryer can safely run, observe whether the exterior flap opens from a safe position at grade. A clean filter cannot tell you whether the concealed duct is clear. Arrange duct service for poor airflow, buildup or an inaccessible run with symptoms. U.S. Fire Administration dryer guidance.

Try the tissue test at the bath fan

Turn on the fan and hold a single square of light toilet tissue against the intake grille. Ease your fingers away briefly, then retrieve the tissue. If it stays up, the fan is drawing air at the grille. If it falls, repeat with the door slightly open and note the result both ways. A dirty grille, restricted duct or limited replacement air can weaken the draw. Persistent condensation or poor draw calls for a closer assessment. The tissue cannot measure airflow or confirm that the duct exhausts outdoors.

See the real tissue test photo in Figure 23 of the Pacific Northwest National Laboratory guide.

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Bulbs, switches, appliances and alarms

Test each switch and list the specific fixture or bulb that stays dark. A vanity with three lamps can light up while one bulb is out. Note flicker, a cracked cover or scorch marks. Refer damaged electrical equipment for qualified service. Use the normal thermostat and appliance controls only when utilities are on and the equipment appears safe.

Identify each accessible smoke and carbon monoxide alarm by room. Follow its manufacturer’s test instructions and record the result, model or replacement date where visible. Mark inaccessible alarms and unavailable utilities as not tested. A field checklist documents observations and cannot certify coverage or compliance.

Test GFCI protection at accessible wet area outlets

At kitchen, bathroom or laundry receptacles, use dry hands and a dry floor. Leave wet, scorched, damaged or loose devices for an electrician. Check what else could lose power before testing. With a working lamp switched on, press TEST on the protecting GFCI. The lamp should go out. Press RESET and confirm the lamp lights again. A receptacle may be protected by another device upstream. Identify it when possible and verify the downstream outlet loses and regains power.

A plug in GFCI tester is handy for accessible, grounded receptacles. Follow its instructions. Its trip function may not work on an ungrounded circuit. If protection cannot be identified, mark NT. If the device fails to trip, reset or restore power as expected, record the location for a qualified electrician. Manufacturer’s GFCI test procedure.

Record the dates while the alarm is within reach

Read the manufacturer label if safely accessible. Record the room, alarm type, manufacture date, known installation date and replacement due date separately. Keep an unknown installation date marked unknown. Use the printed replace by date or the maker’s service life for that model. Smoke and CO devices can have different lifetimes. Use your marker on the service record or a nearby removable label. Write on the alarm only in an area the manufacturer designates. Keep vents, buttons and original labels clear. If an alarm was removed from its bracket as instructed, refit and test it before leaving.

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Siding, crawlspace vents and attic clues

Walk the perimeter from ground level. Look below windows, around penetrations and at outside corners for open joints, peeling finish, swollen edges and loose siding. Check where downspouts discharge and whether splashback is staining the wall. Identify the elevation and nearby door or window in your notes.

At existing crawlspace vents, look for vegetation, debris or damaged screens. Some crawlspaces are intentionally sealed. Record what is present before changing a vent. From a normal standing position, check accessible hatch surroundings and interior ceilings for staining, condensation or odor. Note inaccessible areas. Leave crawlspace entry, attic entry, roof access and investigation of concealed moisture or movement to a qualified inspector or specialist.

Follow moisture clues into overlooked corners

Use a flashlight along the back wall of each closet, especially exterior wall corners, inside kitchen and vanity cabinets, beneath sinks, and where bathroom ceilings meet walls above the shower. Look for spotting, peeling paint, swollen panels or condensation. Note any musty odor and whether the area is wet today. Photograph the location and extent without disturbing the material. Color alone cannot identify mold or its cause. Record suspected growth and arrange assessment of the moisture source before painting or resealing. EPA guidance on mold and moisture.

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Close the report with a retest

Write the original symptom, responsible person, due date and verification result. For example, “Kitchen sink: cabinet dry at rest. Bead appeared at trap outlet when basin emptied. After repair, repeated basin discharge and checked joint and paper below; both dry.” Separate unresolved items from completed repairs before handing over keys.

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